The streetwear style proliferated in the 1990s, inspired by hip-hop and surf culture. While typically more of a men’s fashion, these days there are more and more women not only embracing wearing the style but also working behind the scenes to create and influence this growing fashion trend. A casual and comfortable style, streetwear is a fashionable choice yet with everyday wearability at the forefront.
The roots of streetwear mean that for several years, it was mainly a fashion choice for men. The clothing is typically baggy and rarely figure-hugging yet often comes with a large designer label as a focal point. Another important factor to consider is that two large components of traditional street wear include sportswear and functional clothing. Sportswear, whether football kits or gym wear, and functional clothes, including specialist hiking gear and hardwearing clothes designed suited for outdoor work, have historically been marketed towards men.
However, in recent years, the designer Street style has become more popular than ever with female consumers. Influencers and celebrities are regularly seen embracing the streetwear fashion, and new colours, fits and designs are coming into play as a result. Many of the biggest brand names are now focusing more heavily on women’s fashion. While this may seem like something new, the fact is that there have been women influencing streetwear in the background from the earliest days of the trend.
Female Design Icons in Streetwear
Individual subcultures come and go, but the concept of subcultures have existed since the 1950’s and the changes in culture and society. All throughout their existence, women have had an instrumental role in their development. Whether that’s punks, goths or surfer.
Since the early ‘90s, women have been pioneering streetwear, both as wearers and designers. Famous female icons have not only been seen wearing this fashion but also been influential in the creation of popular brands catering for both men and women.
Kim Gordon – the former bass player for popular ‘90s band Sonic Youth created a streetwear label in 1994 in partnership with Daisy von Furth. The X-Girl label is the sister brand to X-Large, founded by a collaboration including Mike D from The Beastie Boys. The emphasis is on anti-everything – anti-establishment, anti-commercialisation and anti-mainstream – with a heavy punk and skate influence.
Camella Ehlke – Almost before male streetwear became a thing, Camilla Ehlke was already promoting a similar style to female fashionistas. 555 Soul started in 1989, with an innovative line of clothing marketed to both men and women. Heavily influenced by California surf, skate and underground hip-hop culture, with a nod to the 1960s and to the New York downtown club scene, the style caught on quickly. In 1992, Ehlke opened a “Strictly for the Ladies” store next door to her original shop, in partnership with stylist Laura Barker.
Kimora Lee Simmons – Phat Farm was established by Russell Simmons and is a leading men’s streetwear brand. In 1999, his wife Kimora Lee launched Baby Phat – a streetwear brand to challenge the imagination. Never before had streetwear been marketed so exclusively to women. The term “ghetto fabulousness” was created specifically for Kimora’s unique brand of glamorous urban wear for women.
These are only a handful of the leading ladies that have been influencing women’s streetwear over the decades. Today, as the trend gains more traction among female consumers, we are seeing more and more unique ideas on the streets and on the runways. From hip-hop to K-pop, the musical and pop culture influences of streetwear have resulted in an eclectic style that can be worn by almost anyone.
Women have always played a key role in the design of urban fashion. Today, we see more people of all gender identities wearing streetwear. From top celebrities to social media influencers and general fans of music and skate or surf culture, anti-fashion is a popular choice across all cultural and social groups.